A Tale of courage, wanderlust, and triumph over the impossible

Going back a decade, even as an avid traveler, I wouldn’t have imagined traveling while I was sick, especially if it was a life-threatening one. Fast forward a couple of years and I was diagnosed with advanced BRCA1. My breast cancer had already spread to both breasts and was rapidly progressing toward my liver. I was devastated, but the main thing that upset me was that I still had so much to explore. 

I was young & it made me realize what genuine fear was. When the doctors told me that I would be treated every three weeks for the foreseeable future, I truly believed that this would mean the end of my travels, especially long distance. 

As I went through the treatment, I kept dreaming of places I would visit. It got me through my darkest days during treatment. There were days when I had symptoms such as nausea, fatigue, and peripheral neuropathy, so I factored in rest time. My goal was not to travel nonstop, so I prioritized the places I wanted to visit and took things at my own pace. It took me over a year to have the physical strength, as well as the courage, to finally plan & head for my first major trip. (of course, after consulting with the doctors & taking all necessary precautions). Yes, it takes a bit of more detailed planning & management but it is worth it. 

I was finally able to set off on the trip I had been dreaming of for so long. It was my trip to Bhutan and that morning hike to the Tiger’s Nest that changed everything for me. 

The Tiger’s Nest Monastery in Paro, Bhutan, is an enchanting place! A picture of the monastery is enough to make you want to visit it. This desire is triggered by the picturesque facade of the monastery in front of a craggy rock face – a seemingly impossible place to reach. It is as if the scenery were a manifestation of a superhero movie (think of Rajnikanth’s journey to the Himalayas). The experience is aptly described by many as physically demanding and spiritually overwhelming. May I add that it is breathtaking? 

I had heard many stories from my friends about their trekking experiences, read tons of blogs, and watched videos. Even with all the odds against me, I was very confident that no matter what adversity or physical hurdles, I would overcome all difficulties and reach the monastery. On the 2nd day of my trip, hiking was on the agenda. On the first day, we explored the surroundings of Paro and visited the dzongs, the handicraft market, and the museum. Since I only had a few days before it was time for me to go back for my scheduled treatment, I had to visit 4 different places in Bhutan. The sun god was kind to me and it shone bright and cheerful. It was a beautiful day to begin with. 

A little story about the Tiger’s Nest Monastery in Paro 

                                       Tiger’s Nest Monastery in Paro

The history of the Tiger’s Nest Monastery dates back to the 8th century. Century. Also known as Taktsang Monastery, where “Takt” means tiger and “Sang” means nest, it is a sacred place for Buddhists. The monastery, which hangs on the side of a steep cliff, wowed me the first time I saw it. It was majestic and beautifully built amidst the high mountains. 

The monastery is dedicated to Guru Padmasambhava, also known as Guru Rinpoche, who was an 8th-century Buddhist leader. It is said that he brought Buddhism to Bhutan. In Tibetan Buddhism, he is also referred to as the second Buddha, a reincarnation of the Buddha. Popular belief is that he flew from Tibet on the back of a tigress, who was his consort Yeshe Tsogyal, and meditated there for three years, three months, three weeks,

three days, and three hours. He created peace and harmony at a time when man had lost his faith and trust in humanity. 

Later, these caves were used for meditation, and a structure was built around them. The temple was built in 1962 by the Bhutanese ruler Gyalse Tenzin Rabgya. However, a few years later, the main temple burned twice and was destroyed, so it was rebuilt with the help of the Bhutanese government. There is also a place where holy water is available, which according to Bhutanese belief can cure serious and fatal diseases. 

For me – the Holy Water was a cherry on the cake. The hike began with enthusiasm. I had a light breakfast before heading out as Food along with medicines is the essential fuel that would keep me going. I reached the place around 8 a.m. Got myself a ticket at the ticket counter, Rs.500 per person for Indian tourists. My guide picked up a couple of sticks from the woods for walking. Initially, my dear friend and guide Tashi was a little worried that I would finish the hike or get sick due to the severity. But honest to God, I was more full of enthusiasm and vigor than he was. I had to do this. He tried to persuade me to get a mule, but being an animal lover, I didn’t want to burden the poor animal. I started out with full energy, pausing here and there and chatting with fellow hikers. Tashi asked me to go slowly and save energy as we had a long way to go, but I was in top form that morning. Already from the base camp, the monastery started playing peek-a-boo with me. After we had hiked for an hour, I felt, ”No, it’s not that easy, Mo you have to slow down or you’ll burn yourself out halfway.” 

                                      Dear Friend & Guide Tashi

No, I didn’t stop! I met a very pretty lady of about 65 who had come all the way from Quba and was panting in the hot sun. That was one of the inspiring moments, meeting such an elderly yet enthusiastic person from another country in another country. On the way up, I bumped into a couple of hikers from different parts of the globe. 

Finally, we reached the only cafeteria on the way at 10:30. I was told that I was already halfway through the journey. I let out a sigh of relief, quickly freshened up, hydrated myself and resumed the onward journey. 

The final leg of this hike and those steep stairs were a real struggle. But I finally made it to the top and got an epic view of the whole monastery. I thought I was almost there a few times, but nope – the hardest part was still ahead. The stairs were all messed up and some of them were even missing. It felt like we were never gonna make it. At one point, I was like, “I’m done, I can’t go any further.” I was already breathless and gasping for air. But then Tashi motivated me again, my fellow trekkers were all cheering for me! How could I not do it? “A few more stairs, is it Tashi?” I asked. “We will reach the waterfall and again from there, we need to ascend the stairs – and then we are there” He replied. 

In the face of a life-threatening diagnosis, I embarked on a journey that would change the course of my life. This is the story of how I defied cancer and trekked to the mesmerizing Tiger’s Nest Monastery in Bhutan, finding strength, inspiration, and an unbreakable spirit along the way.

After another 25 minutes, I finally arrived at the main temple and emerged victorious from the battle. It was 12:00 p.m. However, it’s important to note that cameras are not allowed inside, so make sure to store all your belongings in the locker room. I spent an hour exploring the monastery and lighting butter lamps. To my surprise, I felt like a new person! All of my tiredness and exhaustion had vanished. It was a surreal experience, and I felt calm and refreshed like never before since my diagnosis. There was a unique energy in the air that could only be felt once you’d made it there. Words cannot do it justice. Even as I type this, I still get goosebumps. From the top, the entire Paro town looks mesmerizing. 

Finally, it was time to descend. While it isn’t that difficult, it has its own little magic! We hit the Cafeteria again, but it was already 2.30pm. I hogged on some Bhutanese red rice and leafy greens. I was starving and the meal was yummy, it didn’t make me feel sick. After chilling for about 30 minutes, I hit the road again. This time, the impatient me decided to take the shortcut which was pretty sketchy, with no real path and some steep drops. We were basically walking on the edge of a cliff! But I loved it thoroughly! By the time I made it to The Tiger’s Nest Monastery, I felt like I could conquer anything in this world, even cancer!

The trip back was smoother and didn’t take as long. It was a huge moment for me, a day I’ll never forget. My driver was super stoked to see me. As soon as he spotted us, he came running over to hear all about our little adventure. I finally headed back to the hotel after a much-needed hot stone bath & went to bed early that night after dinner with my knees bruised but my heart full. 

It was that day I decided that as long as I can carry on traveling, I will find a way. We all can!

For any further queries, please reach out to holidays@lykke.travel

Use coupon code ‘TMV2000‘ during your booking on our website to unlock an exclusive flat discount of 2000/-

Credits:

Blog post written by: Mohana